Jewel and setting therefor



April 18, 1933. L. M. ZELL 1,904,259

JEWEL AND SETTING THEREEOR Filed March 19, 1931 w@ MW Patented Apr. 18, 1933 y v Lucien. ivLZELL, or ESSEX COUNTY, NEW JERSEY JEWEL AND SETTING THEEEEOE.

Application filed Marchv 19, 1931. Serial No. 523,670.

This invention relates to cut jewels or precious' and Semi-precious Stones and settings therefor. v 1

l The method employed at the present day 5 for cutting precious and Semi-precious ewels or gems and the provision of settings therefor involves a problem which for safetyin mounting entails a loss of thebrilliancy of the ems or a destruction to a. considerable eX- tent of the full refractive power of the gem.

Thus, lin accordance with methods of'mounting of precious and semi-precious jewels or gems for purposes of security as where forming a pendant or a necklace, `the jewels were either embraced in a heavy setting which effectively hides a large portion of the surface cut with facets, or if drilled, to be suspended asa bead as part of a-necklace, the' interior drilling through the entire gem o-r part thereof also serves to destroy theffull4 refractive power of the gem and thereby destroys its brilliancy. Since beauty `and brilliancy of the gem resides in exposing substantially unc obstructed the entire gem and its surface cut with facets, methods ofmounting and setting ems as known to me have always interfered with this desirable quality of the gem.

Itis therefore an object of my invention 'to so cut precious and semi-precious stones, gems or jewels to provide a faceted surface of any predetermined character and-of the most intricateform tothereby display the gem in its greatest beauty and with the highest quality of brilliancy, and at the same time provide a 135 means for mounting the same in a setting with greatest security of attachment witho-ut interfering-'with the faceted'A surface. It is contemplated by my invention to provide precious and semi-precious jewels of a form which will permit quick and ready attachment and mounting and expose the maximum faceted surface surroundingthe fullest depth of the: jewel totherebvk obtain the greatest W beauty and brilliancy of the stone.4 "4" It is a further object lof my invention to provide a cut'jewel or gem and a setting therefor, thejewel"and'setting'coinbining to offer security of mounting and maximum-brilliancy y Adue to` elimination of the setting from the 5'0 faceted surface ofV the jewel and also by avoiding a destruction of the refracting power of the jewel by formation of drilled holes or otherwise cutting the jewel below the faceted surface.,v l f .It is further an object of my invention to provide a new and novel for-m of precious or-semi-precious jewel anda setting therefor which combines all the elements of beauty and Y brilliancy with security for mounting.

To'obtain these objects and such further o b.- jectsas mayappear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, I make reference to the accompanying drawing forming a part hereof in which Figure l is a planv view of a necklace employing and illustrating my new gemy and setting therefor.

Figure 2 is an enlarged detail of a single jewel and setting therefor.

Figure 3 is another embodiment of my in vention in the form of a pendant.

Making reference to the drawing in the form illustrated, 10 represents a necklace in which the band portion includes a latch 1l at the rear portion thereof and a jeweled portion, generally referred to at 12 at 4the front portion thereof. The jeweled portion coniprises' primarily a plurality of gems 1,3 re-v tained' withinl settings 14 in number and quality of cutting as desired which will be hereinafter emphasized. These gems 13 are interposed, by smaller or less precious jewels to complete the ornamental design of the necklace such as by mounted diamonds, pearls,

rubies, emeraldsor the like and other precious or semi-precious jewels which may be utilized to complete the scheme of design of the necklace.

` As a primary part of my invention resides in the jewel 13 and the setting 14: therefor,

I shall now describe this phase of my invention in'detail. For this purpose as illustrated in Figure 2, a precious stone -of any desired character is illustrated. This may-be the diamond, emerald, ruby, aquamarine or others which are generally cut with a large numberv of facets 15 to impart to the precious stones the requisite formand contourv as well as brilliancy by reason of the refractive and reflective character of the surfaces. In the form illustrated the precious stone is cut in cylindrical outline with the facets 15 about the cylindrical surface and other facets at the beveled portions shown at 16. The ends 17 of the gem thus cut and provided with the desired character and number of facets is formed with an extension 18 having an enlarged portion v19 and a restricted portion 20. This extension may be turned to be circular in form transversely of the entire gem. Vithithe extensions thus formed, the setting portion made of the metal such as platinum or platinum compositions, gold, silver or the like, are utilized to mount the jewel or gem thus formed. This may take the form of a cup 21 of general dimensions, equivalent to the extension 18. Attachment is made by crimping or forming the lip portion 22 of the cup into rm engagement with the restricted portion 20 of the extension 18, previously described. It will be understood that the cups 21 thus provided may be part of the setting of the assembly illustrated or formed part of any other setting such as a ring, pendant, brooch or the like. In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 3, a gem 13a is cut to the desired contour and provided with the facets 15a determined by the gem cutter to be best suited for this contour. At one end 17a, there is provided an extension 18a substantially as provided in the embodiment previously referred to. Over this extension there is then affixed a setting 19a.. This is preferably a cup of the character described in the previous embodiment and made of precious metals such as platinum or platinum compositions, gold, silver or the like. To this cup there may be attached the pendant setting 20a of the desired contour as will be readily understood. y

It will be observed that by the construction as provided, gems may be cut in any predetermined contour and with the number and quality of facets which will bring out their beauty and emphasize the natural brilliancy of the gem. The extension portion provided either at one or both ends of the gem in no way interferes with the refractive power of the gem through the maximum number of facets of the gem and throughout its fullest depth and dimensions. The extension further permits a most rigid and secure mounting with the setting insuring against accidental displacement. The setting as provided in no way obscures the faceted surface of the jewel. The method of mounting is well adapted for pendants, necklaces or the equivalents of beads which heretofore have been drilled to provide a means of attachment or have been partially drill-cd and cemented when desired to be used as a pendant or the like. These interior drillings and destruction of the fully refractive power of the jewel are not only eliminated by my construction but security of attachment with maximum brilliancy of the stone is assured.

In the claims where I have referred to the mounting means as extended laterally beyond or as a lateral extension or as being disposed exteriorly and laterally or at lateral portions7 or as a lateral extension, I means to include thereby the position in relation to the complete faceted system of the stone or gem as to leave the front and rear of the complete facted system of the stone or gem unobstructed to observation and to passage of light by reflection and refraction at the normal angle at which the stone would be viewed upon usual illumination in using the mounted stone or gem.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I Claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. As a new article of manufacture, cut precious or semi-precious stones having a faceted surface and mounting means integral with and extended laterally beyond and formed from the Ibody l of the stone, said faceted surfaces being extended adjacent said mountingA means without interference with the brilliancy of the stones.

2. As a new article of manufacture, precious or semi-precious stones cuty with facets for a portion of the body thereof and including lateral extension portions integral with and formed from the body of the gem, said extension having a restricted neck, said facets being extended adjacent said extensions portions without interfering with the brilliancy of the stones.

3. As a new article of manufacture, precious or semi-precious stones, having a predetermined body portion, provided with facets, an extension for mounting said stone so cut, said extension being disposed exteriorly and laterally from said body portion and free from reflective and refractive interference with the faceted surface.

4. As a new article of manufacture, lprecious or semi-precious gems, faceted surfaces cut on said stone, mounting means for said stone, said mounting means being free from facets and disposed at lateral portions of said stone to in no way interfere with the refractive portion of the facets on the body portion of said stone and being integral with said stone.

5. As a new article of manufacture, aprecious or semi-precious stone cut with facets for a portion of the body thereof, an extension portion disposed exteriorly and laterally of said body for mounting said body formed from the gem itself, said extension portion being generally of cylindrical contour, the extension portion being positioned relatively to the facets to avoid deterring fromthe brilliancy of the stone. i

6. As a new article of manufacture, a precious or semi-precious stone cut With facets for a portion of the body thereof, an eXtension portion disposed eXteriorly and laterally -of said body for mounting said body formed from the gem itself, said extension portion being generally of cylindrical contour and including a restricted and undercut neck, the extension portion being positioned relatively to the facets to avoid deterring from the brilliancy ofthe stone.

7. As a new article of manufacture, a precious or semi-precious stone'of general cylindrical contour and cut with faoets coaXially disposed, an extension portion for mounting said geni formed from and integral with the body of the gem, said extension being disposed laterally beyond the faceted surface and free from refractive and reflective interference with said faceted surface.

8. As a new article of manufacture, a precious or semi-precious stone having a predetermined body portion provided with facets, a lateral extension portion free from refractive and reflective interference with the facets formed on said stone, said extension portion being adapted to be mounted and included within a cup shaped mounting therefor.

9. Mounted jewelry comprising a setting and a gem, said gem comprising a faceted 30, surfaced body portion and an integral, lateral extension, the setting including a cup shaped portion engaging said extension the faceted surface and extension being free from reflective and refractive interference.

10. Mounted jewelry comprlsing a gem including a body portion formed with a faceted surface and a lateral extension portion comprising a restricted neck, the setting of the mounting including portions engaging the restricted neck of said gern, the faceted surface and extension por-tion being free from reflective and refractive interference.

l1. As a new article of manufacture, a precious or semi-precious stone having a predetermined body portion provided with facets forming a refractive and reflective faceted jewel system, mounting means formed from the body of said stone disposed from an end or side of the faceted surface and extended laterally beyond the body of said stone, leaving the front and the rear of the faceted surface free from reflective and refractive interference.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name this 17 th day of March, 1931.

LUCIAN M. ZELL. 

